Spring in the east

Red Trillium (Trillium erectum)Red Trillium (Trillium erectum)

Red Trillium (Trillium erectum)

As a coastal California native I’ve learned not only to see but appreciate the subtlety of the change in seasons. These last few weeks have afforded me the opportunity to see a slow progression of the shift into spring where the seasons are much more distinct. First with a ground flower here or there such as the red, white and sessile trilliums. Then we started to see a carpet of green under the still bare forest. Slowly the trees started not only to leaf out but trees like the Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) and the white or pink Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) brightened up our paths.

While we have begun our northern migration ahead of many birds the Cardinal, Mockingbird and Robin sing our wake up calls. Red wing black birds trade off singing with the Grackles and Swallows zip by our heads plucking insects from the air. Butterflies have unfurled their wings to meet the early flowers. We’ve seen the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus), Zebra Swallowtail (Protographium marcellus) and beautiful Luna Moth (Actius luna).

Eastern Tiger SwallotailEastern Tiger Swallotail

Eastern Tiger Swallotail

The warm and cold days trade off in a battle of weather fronts. One day it’s tank tops and the next my down jacket. While trees on the mountain tops are still bare the trees in the lower elevations are now beginning to fill out and it’s getting harder to see through the branches. Green is everywhere. If it’s not in the forest then it’s the bright green grasses these states are famous for.

WhalesWhales

Whales

On the coast of Delaware the signs of spring show up in a different way. During a cold but lovely walk along the beach we stopped to notice a beached horseshoe crab. In our delay we not only caught the spring migrating dolphins and local porpoises hunting together but we also saw a humpback whale and it’s baby fishing not 40 yards from where we stood. It was an incredible sight.

Soon we’ll be in DC to explore our nations capital. An experience I am truly excited about. It’s sure to be a whole different kind of ecology than we’ve been seeing these last few months.

Spring in the east

Red Trillium (Trillium erectum)

Red Trillium (Trillium erectum)

As a coastal California native I’ve learned not only to see but appreciate the subtlety of the change in seasons. These last few weeks have afforded me the opportunity to see a slow progression of the shift into spring where the seasons are much more distinct. First with a ground flower here or there such as the red, white and sessile trilliums. Then we started to see a carpet of green under the still bare forest. Slowly the trees started not only to leaf out but trees like the Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) and the white or pink Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) brightened up our paths.

While we have begun our northern migration ahead of many birds the Cardinal, Mockingbird and Robin sing our wake up calls. Red wing black birds trade off singing with the Grackles and Swallows zip by our heads plucking insects from the air. Butterflies have unfurled their wings to meet the early flowers. We’ve seen the Eastern Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio glaucus), Zebra Swallowtail (Protographium marcellus) and beautiful Luna Moth (Actius luna).

Eastern Tiger Swallotail

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail

The warm and cold days trade off in a battle of weather fronts. One day it’s tank tops and the next my down jacket. While trees on the mountain tops are still bare the trees in the lower elevations are now beginning to fill out and it’s getting harder to see through the branches. Green is everywhere. If it’s not in the forest then it’s the bright green grasses these states are famous for.

On the coast of Delaware the signs of spring show up in a different way. During a cold but lovely walk along the beach we stopped to notice a beached horseshoe crab. In our delay we not only caught the spring migratingWhales dolphins and local porpoises hunting together but we also saw a humpback whale and it’s baby fishing not 40 yards from where we stood. It was an incredible sight.

Soon we’ll be in DC to explore our nations capital. An experience I am truly excited about. It’s sure to be a whole different kind of ecology than we’ve been seeing these last few months.

Friendly faces in strange places

Photo installations at Raven Run by Brian RustPhoto installations at Raven Run by Brian Rust

Photo installations at Raven Run by Brian Rust

Ol’ Lil’Squatch gets all kinds of attention. Whether it be people in their cars or on the side of the road staring, somewhat slacked jawed, maybe pointing to their buddy and then pointing to Squatch or folks, all men, wanting to chat with Tim about the solar set-up. So this chat with a local on the outskirts of Knoxville was not unusual. When it got towards the end of the conversation though the man explained that he had purchased some flat solar panels from Harbor Freight for when the “Shit hits the fan I’m not bugging out, I’m bugging in, nawmsayin?!” Complete with pointing to the ground while saying bugging iiinnnnnnn. I won’t lie these are the types of people that I have no respect for. While the comment made us chuckle the sentiment does not. It’s like the story where the man is on his roof and the flood waters are rising around him. Many people come by to try and save him from his roof but his response over and over again is that he’s waiting for God to save him. When the waters reach him he says to God why have you forsaken me? God replies I sent you a horse, a boat, a helicopter etc and each time you refused. What more can I do? This is how I feel about people waiting to use something like solar. Does he not understand that the proverbial shit is already hitting the fan? Possibly because as a society we’re unwilling to do anything that might make a difference until it’s way too late.

On April the 11th we pulled the invasive Asian honeysuckle from Raven Run Sanctuary outside of Lexington. Tim mentioned this in his last post but it’s worth a revisit. While we ran short on time to really explore the park we couldn’t help but notice what a beloved park it is considering the creative parking folks did once the lot was full that morning. The event was scheduled by a local couple of Sierra Club members. Naturally us nerds all had some interest in both birds and the flowers that have begun to show themselves for spring. There are some downers to the efforts to remove invasive plants and animals and I can understand the sentiment but, I’m in it for two reasons. First, it’s great exercise that I find way more fun than a gym. Second we need places of refuge. Places where we can do our best to keep invasives out and give local plants and animals a place to thrive.

Ten years ago when I moved to SF one of the first volunteer days I did was pulling french broom from Mt Tam. We worked with a ranger who mentioned that they were just now in the position to start planting some local shrubs and grasses in areas where they had made some real headway against french broom. I asked how long she’d been at it and she said 10 years. Very thoughtlessly I replied that I would have given up and the hurt on her face was palpable. It was a learning moment to say the least. I wonder where they are at now 20 years into the project? This came up again when the woman, Anna, who worked at the park casually threw out that perhaps in 10 years they’ll start to see some real progress. There was no defeat in her voice. Maybe in 10 years I’ll go back to Raven’s Run to see the progress for myself and give the place the time it deserved that day. It may seem like a long time and a lot of work but in just a few hours with a crew of nine volunteers we managed to clear a respectable plot of land.

The media might have us all believing that it’s either black or white, red or blue, coal or solar, logging or recreation. And it’s just not. Granted most of our interactions have been with either outdoorsy folks or fellow volunteers. Since we started our trek through Appalachia we’ve heard time and time again that the big “job creator” is work in outdoor adventures. Whether it be hiking, biking, climbing or river running people are getting outdoors. In Tennessee we spent a long time talking to a ranger at a state park who explained how back in the 70’s the TVA had to shutdown a hydro plant. That meant until it was fixed the river ran free. Business boomed. When TVA went to put it back online the backlash was fierce. Eventually they worked out a deal. That river is the Ocoee and was where the river sports for the 1996 Olympics out of Atlanta took place. Nearby is the Hiawasee river noted for it’s constant flow of water (thanks to the TVA). It’s the river of choice for novice boaters. We also chatted up our ranger in the Smokies when getting our backpacking permit, also a river man. The salesman at REI talked to us for the better part of an hour about his love of photography, Napa and his upcoming river trip in Utah. After our volunteer day at Raven Run the folks who got us all together very sweetly took us out to dinner. We could have chatted for several more hours talking of the places we’ve been and where we should all go next.

It seemed only fair that this should all be burned in a giant heap of coal during our days in West Virginia. Coal country in south WV was a strange place stuck in another time. These towns and homes are depressed, the river is clogged with trash. This is not a business that has much life left in it. While coal “keeps the lights on” it’s not keeping people employed. Coals days are most definitely numbered, at least in Appalachia. However, driving further on to an eastern portion of the state for a bike ride along the Greenbrier River Trail we saw a whole other side to West Virginia. It’s not only beautiful it’s also rich in outdoor activities, giving credit to the state’s slogan of “Wild and Wonderful”. We stopped in a cafe for a beer and bite in Marlinton, WV where we got to chatting with a local couple. It was a lovely and informative conversation with folks who very much think like we do.

HoneysuckleHoneysuckle

Honeysuckle

After West Virginia we moved onto Natural Bridge Virginia and yet another volunteer opportunity to pull the invasive honeysuckle. The honeysuckle not only crowds out and thus shades out native plants it’s suspected to produce an allelopathy to keep other plants at bay. This effort was coordinated by the Nature Conservancy for an Earth Day event. There were almost 100 volunteers for the day for both pulling invasive plants and trail building followed by a nice lunch at the historic Natural Bridge Hotel. The event brought in a large group from a nearby college, a local group of AT trail maintainers, staff from both Virginia senator offices and several others just wanting to help make a difference for the day. I hope everyone there that day took a look around at the work that was accomplished and felt good about the day. Even though there is still much work to be done at Raven Run, Natural Bridge and all the other parks, sanctuaries and preserves it will make a difference even if only a handful of people keep chipping away at it each month.

Friendly faces in strange places

Ol’ Lil’Squatch gets all kinds of attention. Whether it be people in their cars or on the side of the road staring, somewhat slacked jawed, maybe pointing to their buddy and then pointing to Squatch or folks, all men, wanting to chat with Tim about the solar set-up. So this chat with a local on the outskirts of Knoxville was not unusual. When it got towards the end of the conversation though the man explained that he had purchased some flat solar panels from Harbor Freight for when the “Shit hits the fan I’m not bugging out, I’m bugging in, nawmsayin?!” Complete with pointing to the ground while saying bugging iiinnnnnnn. I won’t lie these are the types of people that I have no respect for. While the comment made us chuckle the sentiment does not. It’s like the story where the man is on his roof and the flood waters are rising around him. Many people come by to try and save him from his roof but his response over and over again is that he’s waiting for God to save him. When the waters reach him he says to God why have you forsaken me? God replies I sent you a horse, a boat, a helicopter etc and each time you refused. What more can I do? This is how I feel about people waiting to use something like solar. Does he not understand that the proverbial shit is already hitting the fan? Possibly because as a society we’re unwilling to do anything that might make a difference until it’s way too late.

Photo installations at Raven Run by Brian Rust

Photo installations at Raven Run by Brian Rust

On April the 11th we pulled the invasive Asian honeysuckle from Raven Run Sanctuary outside of Lexington. Tim mentioned this in his last post but it’s worth a revisit. While we ran short on time to really explore the park we couldn’t help but notice what a beloved park it is considering the creative parking folks did once the lot was full that morning. The event was scheduled by a local couple of Sierra Club members. Naturally us nerds all had some interest in both birds and the flowers that have begun to show themselves for spring. There are some downers to the efforts to remove invasive plants and animals and I can understand the sentiment but, I’m in it for two reasons. First, it’s great exercise that I find way more fun than a gym. Second we need places of refuge. Places where we can do our best to keep invasives out and give local plants and animals a place to thrive.

Ten years ago when I moved to SF one of the first volunteer days I did was pulling french broom from Mt Tam. We worked with a ranger who mentioned that they were just now in the position to start planting some local shrubs and grasses in areas where they had made some real headway against french broom. I asked how long she’d been at it and she said 10 years. Very thoughtlessly I replied that I would have given up and the hurt on her face was palpable. It was a learning moment to say the least. I wonder where they are at now 20 years into the project? This came up again when the woman, Anna, who worked at the park casually threw out that perhaps in 10 years they’ll start to see some real progress. There was no defeat in her voice. Maybe in 10 years I’ll go back to Raven’s Run to see the progress for myself and give the place the time it deserved that day. It may seem like a long time and a lot of work but in just a few hours with a crew of nine volunteers we managed to clear a respectable plot of land.

The media might have us all believing that it’s either black or white, red or blue, coal or solar, logging or recreation. And it’s just not. Granted most of our interactions have been with either outdoorsy folks or fellow volunteers. Since we started our trek through Appalachia we’ve heard time and time again that the big “job creator” is work in outdoor adventures. Whether it be hiking, biking, climbing or river running people are getting outdoors. In Tennessee we spent a long time talking to a ranger at a state park who explained how back in the 70’s the TVA had to shutdown a hydro plant. That meant until it was fixed the river ran free. Business boomed. When TVA went to put it back online the backlash was fierce. Eventually they worked out a deal. That river is the Ocoee and was where the river sports for the 1996 Olympics out of Atlanta took place. Nearby is the Hiawasee river noted for it’s constant flow of water (thanks to the TVA). It’s the river of choice for novice boaters. We also chatted up our ranger in the Smokies when getting our backpacking permit, also a river man. The salesman at REI talked to us for the better part of an hour about his love of photography, Napa and his upcoming river trip in Utah. After our volunteer day at Raven Run the folks who got us all together very sweetly took us out to dinner. We could have chatted for several more hours talking of the places we’ve been and where we should all go next.

It seemed only fair that this should all be burned in a giant heap of coal during our days in West Virginia. Coal country in south WV was a strange place stuck in another time. These towns and homes are depressed, the river is clogged with trash. This is not a business that has much life left in it. While coal “keeps the lights on” it’s not keeping people employed. Coals days are most definitely numbered, at least in Appalachia. However, driving further on to an eastern portion of the state for a bike ride along the Greenbrier River Trail we saw a whole other side to West Virginia. It’s not only beautiful it’s also rich in outdoor activities, giving credit to the state’s slogan of “Wild and Wonderful”. We stopped in a cafe for a beer and bite in Marlinton, WV where we got to chatting with a local couple. It was a lovely and informative conversation with folks who very much think like we do.

Honeysuckle

Big pile o’ honeysuckle

After West Virginia we moved onto Natural Bridge Virginia and yet another volunteer opportunity to pull the invasive honeysuckle. The honeysuckle not only crowds out and thus shades out native plants it’s suspected to produce an allelopathy to keep other plants at bay. This effort was coordinated by the Nature Conservancy for an Earth Day event. There were almost 100 volunteers for the day for both pulling invasive plants and trail building followed by a nice lunch at the historic Natural Bridge Hotel. The event brought in a large group from a nearby college, a local group of AT trail maintainers, staff from both Virginia senator offices and several others just wanting to help make a difference for the day. I hope everyone there that day took a look around at the work that was accomplished and felt good about the day. Even though there is still much work to be done at Raven Run, Natural Bridge and all the other parks, sanctuaries and preserves it will make a difference even if only a handful of people keep chipping away at it each month.

Bourbon Country

Rachael at Raven Run Preserve - Photo by Tim GillerRachael at Raven Run Preserve - Photo by Tim Giller

Rachael at Raven Run Preserve – Photo by Tim Giller

Kentucky surely deserved more time. On the back roads that Squatch prefers every curve was a picture postcard of the greenest grass a Nevada boy ever saw and striking black barns each with a unique quilt pattern mounted upon its upper eave and matching black fences curving across the rolling hillsides enclosing well bred horses. We had to start making our way towards Virginia and Washington D.C. but we did manage to make the most of a short visit.

Throughout this well manicured countryside are pockets of preserved native habitat more or less intact. As in many places, our forbearers managed to bring uninvited plant and animal guests some of whom aggressively overcrowd the locals. This is how we found ourselves joining a wonderful group on a Sierra Club outing to hack, pull and lop back as much invasive honeysuckle as we could in Raven Run Nature Preserve on the outskirts of Lexington. Like much of the region this is not primeval wilderness, people homesteaded here and worked the land to make a living. But that was an era when Americans had a generally lighter hand leaving plenty of native ecosystem to be nourished by folks like those we got to share the better part of a beautiful spring day working with.

Yeast vat -Photo by Tim GillerYeast vat -Photo by Tim Giller

Yeast vat -Photo by Tim Giller

To be fair there was another compelling reason to visit Kentucky, our mutual fondness of Bourbon. Some friends might say I have more than a casual interest in whiskey, but there was a bit of ecology to research as we discovered by touring a couple distilleries. Contrary to popular wisdom, bourbon does not need be made in Kentucky, anywhere in the U.S. qualifies but limestone rich aquifers such as you find in Kentucky are necessary. When one guide told of how the distillery shuts down for a couple months during the summer because the cooling river waters get too warm, I decided not to interrupt his polished monologue to ask if he was worried that climate change might give them more months of warm river water. We also learned that fermenting vats and ageing barrels are made with specific woods chosen for the characteristics they impart to the bourbon. Sourcing of these can be challenging, as some of these woods are getting hard to come by due to over harvesting. However, even though an aging barrel can only be used once for bourbon these valuable barrels have a number of secondary uses such as wine, beer and scotch making, and repurposing as furniture and other products. The spent grains are also passed on as livestock feed.

Redbud with blackened stemsRedbud with blackened stems

Redbud with blackened stems

By far the most interesting thing we learned was that trees, shrubs and buildings near a distillery become blackened by the airborne off gassing. When we were told that prohibition agents used this fact to search for hidden backwoods stills, we came up with a theory that the barns of Kentucky were painted black to disguise illegal distilleries, though we couldn’t find anyone who thought this was true. Disappointingly none of the distillery folks seemed to know the actual reason for this blackening. Baudoinia compniacensis, is a black sac fungus that prefers habitat with broad temperature and humidity shifts such as are produced by distilleries, but it especially thrives on the airborne ethanol. They are apparently harmless to the trees and structures that they coat in vast black colonies. Maybe the bourbon producers think that fungus is bad PR for their industry. But I think that the truth of these little alcohol loving microorganisms is more interesting than telling us that the trees are drunk.

Bourbon Country

Kentucky surely deserved more time. On the back roads that Squatch prefers every curve was a picture postcard of the greenest grass a Nevada boy ever saw and striking black barns each with a unique quilt pattern mounted upon its upper eave and matching black fences curving across the rolling hillsides enclosing well bred horses. We had to start making our way towards Virginia and Washington D.C. but we did manage to make the most of a short visit.

Rachael at Raven Run Preserve - Photo by Tim Giller

Rachael at Raven Run Preserve – Photo by Tim Giller

Throughout this well manicured countryside are pockets of preserved native habitat more or less intact. As in many places, our forbearers managed to bring uninvited plant and animal guests some of whom aggressively overcrowd the locals. This is how we found ourselves joining a wonderful group on a Sierra Club outing to hack, pull and lop back as much invasive honeysuckle as we could in Raven Run Nature Preserve on the outskirts of Lexington. Like much of the region this is not primeval wilderness, people homesteaded here and worked the land to make a living. But that was an era when Americans had a generally lighter hand leaving plenty of native ecosystem to be nourished by folks like those we got to share the better part of a beautiful spring day working with.

Yeast vat -Photo by Tim Giller

Yeast vat -Photo by Tim Giller

To be fair there was another compelling reason to visit Kentucky, our mutual fondness of Bourbon. Some friends might say I have more than a casual interest in whiskey, but there was a bit of ecology to research as we discovered by touring a couple distilleries. Contrary to popular wisdom, bourbon does not need be made in Kentucky, anywhere in the U.S. qualifies but limestone rich aquifers such as you find in Kentucky are necessary. When one guide told of how the distillery shuts down for a couple months during the summer because the cooling river waters get too warm, I decided not to interrupt his polished monologue to ask if he was worried that climate change might give them more months of warm river water. We also learned that fermenting vats and ageing barrels are made with specific woods chosen for the characteristics they impart to the bourbon. Sourcing of these can be challenging, as some of these woods are getting hard to come by due to over harvesting. However, even though an aging barrel can only be used once for bourbon these valuable barrels have a number of secondary uses such as wine, beer and scotch making, and repurposing as furniture and other products. The spent grains are also passed on as livestock feed.

Redbud with blackened stems

Redbud with blackened stems

By far the most interesting thing we learned was that trees, shrubs and buildings near a distillery become blackened by the airborne off gassing. When we were told that prohibition agents used this fact to search for hidden backwoods stills, we came up with a theory that the barns of Kentucky were painted black to disguise illegal distilleries, though we couldn’t find anyone who thought this was true. Disappointingly none of the distillery folks seemed to know the actual reason for this blackening. Baudoinia compniacensis, is a black sac fungus that prefers habitat with broad temperature and humidity shifts such as are produced by distilleries, but it especially thrives on the airborne ethanol. They are apparently harmless to the trees and structures that they coat in vast black colonies. Maybe the bourbon producers think that fungus is bad PR for their industry. But I think that the truth of these little alcohol loving microorganisms is more interesting than telling us that the trees are drunk.

To Seek

It’s cold again. I don’t have to get out from under the covers to know this. I can see our breath as we yawn and stretch and begin to talk of coffee. I just wasn’t as mentally prepared as I told myself I was when we were leaving the summer like conditions of Florida. It all feels very familiar, the leafless and seemingly lifeless trees, the hands so cold it hurts. We drove from summer back into winter since ten days into it spring has yet to show. But there it is again, the pop of red from out of the woods. We started seeing this tree all the way back in Louisiana, up into middle Mississippi and along the Florida panhandle. Try as we might to get an up close look we couldn’t seem to find a spot where the trees red leaves were close enough to the ground to really see. We just looked in vain at the red fluttering above our heads. A tree that hasn’t let go of it’s red autumn leaves. Are they leaves?
Last December on a trip to Yosemite Tim and I managed to get every passerby curious as to what we were looking at in the grass along the path. We had to sheepishly tell them it was fungus that had grown off a piece of feces. It looked like a giant caterpillar. This is how we “generalists” work. From watching a common gray squirrel to going out on a rainy day hike to see California newts, we find it all pretty interesting and we’re willing to seek it out.

We’ve become visitor center connoisseurs. If you go to a National Park and they have more than one I recommend hitting them all up if possible. Each has their own personality and often unique information about that particular locale of the park. The Sugarlands visitor and park headquarters of the Great Smokey National Park has wonderful displays from A Naturalists Notebook written by Robert G. Johnsson and illustrated by John D. Dawson complimented by taxidermy displays and believable fake versions of some plants and flowers. We liked it so much we went back to try and take in as much as possible. We found out there that Great Smokies National Park is the salamander capital of the world. There are over 30 different species of salamander within the park and several are endemic. Turns out the Smokies are a temperate rain forest. The higher elevations get up to 85 inches of rain a year and the lower around 55. With the astounding amount of rhododendrons, hemlocks and firs parts of the park felt more like the Pacific Northwest. Salamanders are amphibians so moisture is a necessity. Many salamanders are lungless and breathe through their skin. They need good clean water and air which is becoming more compromised with all the nearby coal power plants. For now though the estimated numbers are impressive.

SalamanderHuntSalamanderHunt

SalamanderHunt

SalamanderSalamander

Salamander

The hunt was on! I figured with our successful California Newt experiences this should be cake. We looked under rocks and logs along streams and found many different caddisfly larvae tubes. We looked in a swamp where we found thousands of tad poles and a few millipedes. Tim began pawing at punky wood much like a bear clawing for grubs. We even saw some grubs. After a few days of this I began to think that we’d not see one after all. Then I thought about how my friend’s daughter Juniper had looked under rocks along the rocky shore back in San Diego and in doing so found a brittle star. I looked back at the stream we had just crossed and found a calmer run where a rock was just so that there was a little cave under it. When I pulled it up some silt spun around in the depression and it took a second to realize what I was looking at. I called Tim over and there it was our first of many found salamander! It was tiny, no bigger than my pinky, dark with white gills. It was all very exciting and each subsequent find no less so.

As for the trees with the stubborn red leaves, we got up close to that too. Turns out it’s the red maple and what we had been seeing was the fruit, or samara, that develop first before leaves or flowers in an effort to be ready to drop into nearby water ways when they are their highest in late spring. The red maple is actually quite common in the eastern states and has become more so with the loss of oaks and pines.

I may not always get to see the neat creatures and plants I seek but I get great joy out of the act of looking. Much like playing a game. As long as the game is fun it doesn’t matter if I win or lose. Sure I’ll gloat like the best of them and high five my teammates just like I high fived Tim, my ultimate teammate, on our successful Great Smokey Mountain salamander hunt.

Look who decided to come out to play!Look who decided to come out to play!

Look who decided to come out to play!

To Seek

It’s cold again. I don’t have to get out from under the covers to know this. I can see our breath as we yawn and stretch and begin to talk of coffee. I just wasn’t as mentally prepared as I told myself I was when we were leaving the summer like conditions of Florida. It all feels very familiar, the leafless and seemingly lifeless trees, the hands so cold it hurts. We drove from summer back into winter since ten days into it spring has yet to show. But there it is again, the pop of red from out of the woods. We started seeing this tree all the way back in Louisiana, up into middle Mississippi and along the Florida panhandle. Try as we might to get an up close look we couldn’t seem to find a spot where the trees red leaves were close enough to the ground to really see. We just looked in vain at the red fluttering above our heads. A tree that hasn’t let go of it’s red autumn leaves. Are they leaves?

Last December on a trip to Yosemite Tim and I managed to get every passerby curious as to what we were looking at in the grass along the path. We had to sheepishly tell them it was fungus that had grown off a piece of feces. It looked like a giant caterpillar. This is how we “generalists” work. From watching a common gray squirrel to going out on a rainy day hike to see California newts, we find it all pretty interesting and we’re willing to seek it out.

We’ve become visitor center connoisseurs. If you go to a National Park and they have more than one I recommend hitting them all up if possible. Each has their own personality and often unique information about that particular locale of the park. The Sugarlands visitor and park headquarters of the Great Smokey National Park has wonderful displays from A Naturalists Notebook written by Robert G. Johnsson and illustrated by John D. Dawson complimented by taxidermy displays and believable fake versions of some plants and flowers. We liked it so much we went back to try and take in as much as possible. We found out there that Great Smokies National Park is the salamander capital of the world. There are over 30 different species of salamander within the park and several are endemic. Turns out the Smokies are a temperate rain forest. The higher elevations get up to 85 inches of rain a year and the lower around 55. With the astounding amount of rhododendrons, hemlocks and firs parts of the park felt more like the Pacific Northwest. Salamanders are amphibians so moisture is a necessity. Many salamanders are lungless and breathe through their skin. They need good clean water and air which is becoming more compromised with all the nearby coal power plants. For now though the estimated numbers are impressive.

SalamanderHuntThe hunt was on! I figured with our successful California Newt experiences this should be cake. We looked under rocks and logs along streams and found many different caddisfly larvae tubes. We looked in a swamp where we found thousands of tad poles and a few millipedes. Tim began pawing at punky wood much like a bear clawing for grubs. We even saw some grubs. After a few days of this I began to think that we’d not see one after all. Then I thought about how my friend’s daughter Juniper had looked under rocks along the rocky shore back in San Diego and in doing so found a brittle star. I looked back at the stream we had just crossed and found a calmer run where a rock was just so that there was a little cave under it. When I pulled it up some silt spun around in the depression and it took a second to realize what I was looking at. I called Tim over and there it was our first of many found salamander! It was tiny, no bigger than my pinky, dark with white gills. It was all very exciting and each subsequent find no less so.Salamander

As for the trees with the stubborn red leaves, we got up close to that too. Turns out it’s the red maple and what we had been seeing was the fruit, or samara, that develop first before leaves or flowers in an effort to be ready to drop into nearby water ways when they are their highest in late spring. The red maple is actually quite common in the eastern states and has become more so with the loss of oaks and pines.

I may not always get to see the neat creatures and plants I seek but I get great joy out of the act of looking. Much like playing a game. As long as the game is fun it doesn’t matter if I win or lose. Sure I’ll gloat like the best of them and high five my teammates just like I high fived Tim, my ultimate teammate, on our successful Great Smokey Mountain salamander hunt.

Look who decided to come out to play!

Look who decided to come out to play!

Mountain Folks

James was a fountain of knowledge, an unsolicited fountain but fascinating just the same. And maybe more like an oscillating lawn sprinkler with no obvious shut off valve, a new topic beginning before the previous thought had been finished. I caught him sizing us up as we were walking into the small town thrift store where he was apparently employed, although he spent the better part of 45 minutes talking to us once we were cornered between the over-starched linens, thumb-worn romance novels and water damaged gospel albums. We discovered that James is a true naturalist in his own right. He originally took us to be Appalachian thru-hikers. Months of living in Lil’ Squatch must give us an outdoorsy look. What followed was a staccato primer on the natural history of Southern Appalachia around this corner of Tennessee, Georgia and North Carolina beginning with a quick karate chop description of the river drainages around where we had camped the two previous nights and ending with his interpretations of local Cherokee legends. We were finally able to leave once his exasperated co-workers pulled him away, but not before his very pregnant girlfriend showed up and a was able to show us an indecipherable photo from her flip-phone of what we were told was an amazing waterfall. Though the conversation was decidedly one sided I really appreciated his knowledge and enthusiasm. I think he was relishing the opportunity to share because he was working off a one year ban from the National Forest, though we couldn’t understand if it was for poaching fish, harvesting ginseng out season or for threatening a fellow camper with a bucket containing two live and very venomous copperhead snakes.
People have deep connection with these mountains and rivers. We had another opportunity to learn this the next day when by chance we were able to join a volunteer river clean up along the Hiawassee. Organized in part by Trout Unlimited, we found a group of folks who knew the local waters thoroughly. We learned which rivers had good populations of native fish, and which ones were favored by non-native stocked fish that can thrive in the colder waters below the many dams in the watershed. Kayaking is also incredibly popular in Eastern Tennessee and a few of our cohorts told us of how several dammed rivers have become such popular whitewater destinations that compromises have been made in flow timing in order to benefit these users. The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) was also a sponsor of the volunteer event. This agency is the builder of these dams, beginning in the 1930s, to bring electricity and flood control to an impoverished region. A side effect was the substantial alteration of a large amount of river habitat. Over the years some efforts have been successful to mitigate the damage but the fact is most of the dams remain, though many are nearing the end of the functional lifetime as silt builds up behind them.

Settler Home - Photo by Tim GillerSettler Home - Photo by Tim Giller

Settler Home – Photo by Tim Giller

Eager to have our own first hand experience of this place we made our way to Great Smokey Mountain National Park. As the biggest chunk of preserved Appalachia it also preserves much of the human story of the region. The Eastern band of Cherokee still maintains a presence here despite their bitter and unfair removal along the Trail of Tears. Homesteaders also made a home here and were also compelled to leave as the park was formed; many of their historical homes and other structures have been preserved as visitor attractions. Today the human story appears to be throngs of automobiles. The Smokies are the most visited National Park in the country and the vast majority of those visitors see it from only a car window after working their way through a dense gauntlet of tourist trap attractions just outside the boundaries. Clearly this was no way to find some connection to this landscape so we planned out a 4-day backcountry hike into the heart of the mountains.

Silers Bald AT Shelter - Photo by Tim GillerSilers Bald AT Shelter - Photo by Tim Giller

Silers Bald AT Shelter – Photo by Tim Giller

Up there we encountered a whole new culture that has staked a claim on these mountains. We found ourselves in the middle of the peak season of Appalachian Trail thru-hikers and had the pleasure of spending a windy and frosty night in one of the highest trail shelters on the route. The 2200 mile trail from Georgia to Maine reaches it’s highest point just up the trail from where we walked and each year more and more people attempt to hike the entire trail in one go. Along the route volunteers have built and maintain a series of wooden and stone shelters for hikers to sleep in with ten or more people squeezing into them each night during the high season. These become nightly social gathering spots where stories and information are exchanged and new hiking partners and friendships are made, folks only going by their trail names such as “Black and Blue”, “Bean-Counter” or “Proudfoot”. When we realized we’d be staying along the trail on Easter morning we ducked into town to get candy before heading out. As Rachael passed out treats to grateful thru-hikers I decided her trail name would be “Easter Bummy”.

Salamander - Photo by Tim GillerSalamander - Photo by Tim Giller

Salamander – Photo by Tim Giller

Most of our time though was spent away from the crowd of this busy trail. I was extremely grateful to have the time to get back into the valleys and ridges of the backcountry because my desire for taking this hike was to get a closer look at the nature of these mountains. This wasn’t as easy as I had expected. My first point of entry in a new landscape is generally to get a lay of the land, to see the shape of its contours and get my bearings. Even in early spring with few leaves in the forest to obscure my view it is rare to have the open vistas of my western ranges. I found myself craning my neck, struggling to make out peaks, looking for rocky outcrops to use as landmarks, but it was all indistinct hills covered with a thick and indistinguishable uniformity of trees. What I learned was that to see this landscape you need to look into it, to look more closely and see the incredible diversity of trees, fungus, lichens, mosses, and insects, to flip over a few rocks looking for salamanders, to open my ears to the variety of birdsong emanating from hidden spots back in the endless tangle of branches, to immerse myself in the remarkably clear and cold waters of the countless streams. It has been these little creatures and processes that have kept this landscape humming, despite all the comings and goings of humans over the millennia, indifferent to our foibles though unfortunately not immune to them.

Mountain Folks

James was a fountain of knowledge, an unsolicited fountain but fascinating just the same. And maybe more like an oscillating lawn sprinkler with no obvious shut off valve, a new topic beginning before the previous thought had been finished. I caught him sizing us up as we were walking into the small town thrift store where he was apparently employed, although he spent the better part of 45 minutes talking to us once we were cornered between the over-starched linens, thumb-worn romance novels and water damaged gospel albums. We discovered that James is a true naturalist in his own right. He originally took us to be Appalachian thru-hikers. Months of living in Lil’ Squatch must give us an outdoorsy look. What followed was a staccato primer on the natural history of Southern Appalachia around this corner of Tennessee, Georgia and North Carolina beginning with a quick karate chop description of the river drainages around where we had camped the two previous nights and ending with his interpretations of local Cherokee legends. We were finally able to leave once his exasperated co-workers pulled him away, but not before his very pregnant girlfriend showed up and a was able to show us an indecipherable photo from her flip-phone of what we were told was an amazing waterfall. Though the conversation was decidedly one sided I really appreciated his knowledge and enthusiasm. I think he was relishing the opportunity to share because he was working off a one year ban from the National Forest, though we couldn’t understand if it was for poaching fish, harvesting ginseng out season or for threatening a fellow camper with a bucket containing two live and very venomous copperhead snakes.

People have deep connection with these mountains and rivers. We had another opportunity to learn this the next day when by chance we were able to join a volunteer river clean up along the Hiawassee. Organized in part by Trout Unlimited, we found a group of folks who knew the local waters thoroughly. We learned which rivers had good populations of native fish, and which ones were favored by non-native stocked fish that can thrive in the colder waters below the many dams in the watershed. Kayaking is also incredibly popular in Eastern Tennessee and a few of our cohorts told us of how several dammed rivers have become such popular whitewater destinations that compromises have been made in flow timing in order to benefit these users. The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) was also a sponsor of the volunteer event. This agency is the builder of these dams, beginning in the 1930s, to bring electricity and flood control to an impoverished region. A side effect was the substantial alteration of a large amount of river habitat. Over the years some efforts have been successful to mitigate the damage but the fact is most of the dams remain, though many are nearing the end of the functional lifetime as silt builds up behind them.

Settler Home - Photo by Tim Giller

Settler Home – Photo by Tim Giller

Eager to have our own first hand experience of this place we made our way to Great Smokey Mountain National Park. As the biggest chunk of preserved Appalachia it also preserves much of the human story of the region. The Eastern band of Cherokee still maintains a presence here despite their bitter and unfair removal along the Trail of Tears. Homesteaders also made a home here and were also compelled to leave as the park was formed; many of their historical homes and other structures have been preserved as visitor attractions. Today the human story appears to be throngs of automobiles. The Smokies are the most visited National Park in the country and the vast majority of those visitors see it from only a car window after working their way through a dense gauntlet of tourist trap attractions just outside the boundaries. Clearly this was no way to find some connection to this landscape so we planned out a 4-day backcountry hike into the heart of the mountains.

Silers Bald AT Shelter - Photo by Tim Giller

Silers Bald AT Shelter – Photo by Tim Giller

Up there we encountered a whole new culture that has staked a claim on these mountains. We found ourselves in the middle of the peak season of Appalachian Trail thru-hikers and had the pleasure of spending a windy and frosty night in one of the highest trail shelters on the route. The 2200 mile trail from Georgia to Maine reaches it’s highest point just up the trail from where we walked and each year more and more people attempt to hike the entire trail in one go. Along the route volunteers have built and maintain a series of wooden and stone shelters for hikers to sleep in with ten or more people squeezing into them each night during the high season. These become nightly social gathering spots where stories and information are exchanged and new hiking partners and friendships are made, folks only going by their trail names such as “Black and Blue”, “Bean-Counter” or “Proudfoot”. When we realized we’d be staying along the trail on Easter morning we ducked into town to get candy before heading out. As Rachael passed out treats to grateful thru-hikers I decided her trail name would be “Easter Bummy”.

Salamander - Photo by Tim Giller

Salamander – Photo by Tim Giller

Most of our time though was spent away from the crowd of this busy trail. I was extremely grateful to have the time to get back into the valleys and ridges of the backcountry because my desire for taking this hike was to get a closer look at the nature of these mountains. This wasn’t as easy as I had expected. My first point of entry in a new landscape is generally to get a lay of the land, to see the shape of its contours and get my bearings. Even in early spring with few leaves in the forest to obscure my view it is rare to have the open vistas of my western ranges. I found myself craning my neck, struggling to make out peaks, looking for rocky outcrops to use as landmarks, but it was all indistinct hills covered with a thick and indistinguishable uniformity of trees. What I learned was that to see this landscape you need to look into it, to look more closely and see the incredible diversity of trees, fungus, lichens, mosses, and insects, to flip over a few rocks looking for salamanders, to open my ears to the variety of birdsong emanating from hidden spots back in the endless tangle of branches, to immerse myself in the remarkably clear and cold waters of the countless streams. It has been these little creatures and processes that have kept this landscape humming, despite all the comings and goings of humans over the millennia, indifferent to our foibles though unfortunately not immune to them.